Let the culture and history be vivid.

Source: People’s Daily Online-People’s Daily Overseas Edition

Wang Chonglv Guo Hongsong painted.

Compared with Zeng Guofan, I admire Zhang Jian more. As an extremely complicated individual, Zeng Guofan can be said to be a "big book" with rich contents. After living in Beijing for ten years, he was a scholar, awarded Hanlin, and served as assistant minister of various ministries. After being released to the outside world, he set up the Xiang Army, created Westernization, and served as the governor of several provinces, ranking among the three. He became the person with the greatest meritorious service, the heaviest power and the highest status since the founding of the Qing Dynasty, and achieved the "three immortals" of virtue, meritorious service and self-examination. Moreover, through introspection, he became a sage, a saint inside and a king outside, and "worthy of the perfection of heaven and earth".

However, I vaguely feel that he has lost his id and the starting point of life. He not only wants to build extraordinary achievements, but also wants to be a perfect man between heaven and earth, so as to achieve all-round transcendence inside and outside. His pain also comes from both inside and outside: on the one hand, the court is afraid and suspicious of him, and at the same time, in order to establish a perfect image, he is cautious in his words and deeds, treading on thin ice and pursuing perfection in everything, which inevitably leads to melodramatic and pretentious. As he wrote in his diary: "I have been too anxious recently, and every day I swim in an open day, it is always because I am too eager for fame and popular opinion."

In contrast, Zhang Jian is like a pioneer in the long night.

Zhang Jian’s imperial examination road was very uneven. Seeing the defeat in the Sino-Japanese War of 1894-1895, and thinking about 26 years of wasted time, 120 days and nights curled up and rested in a narrow test shed during the day, and the destruction of talents by stereotyped writing, the champion and he resolutely decided to abandon his official career and take the road of rejuvenating the country through industry and education.

After establishing the development idea of "father’s education and mother’s industry", he has founded more than 20 enterprises, involving textiles, printing and dyeing, printing, paper making, matches, soap, electricity, salt industry, animal husbandry, silkworm, oil, flour, telephone, shipping, docks, banks, real estate, hotels and other industries. Among the more than 370 schools he founded, apart from primary and secondary schools, the focus was on normal education and vocational education in agriculture, medical care, textiles, railways, merchant ships and river and sea engineering. He founded the University of Engineering and Nanyang University, supported his colleagues to establish Fudan College, merged the three colleges of medicine, textile and agriculture into the future Nantong University, and also contacted celebrities in the education field to brew the transformation of normal universities into universities, thus establishing Southeast University and creating a complete modern education system.

The "Big Student Model" he explored promoted the joint-stock system of modern enterprises in China. In terms of education and culture, his museums, normal schools, new theaters and meteorological stations are the first in the country. In addition to establishing a library, a society of performers, a more vulgar theater, parks and stadiums, he also set up charitable undertakings such as nursing homes, nursery schools, disabled homes, poor factories, shelters and welfare homes, with a view to transforming society and improving the quality of the people.

In terms of ideological and theoretical achievements, there has always been a difference in the evaluation between "following" and "going on" in academic circles. The former embodies inheritance, just like adding bricks and tiles to the inherent balcony; The latter pays more attention to innovation and is committed to re-building. As a pioneering practitioner, Zhang Jian belongs to the latter category. From a historical point of view, future generations admire a person, not only by examining what he has done to benefit the society and the people, but also by valuing what new things he has provided to the predecessors. In this sense, I said, "Fool is more approachable, and I am quite convinced by Zhang Jian."

No matter Zeng Guofan or Zhang Jian, or even thinkers, writers and politicians in China, what they said and did in their time reflected the influence of Chinese traditional culture and enriched this culture with their own practice. This is also the angle I chose to write "Context-History of Our Mind".

Culture is the root, blood and lifeline of a nation, and Chinese studies are an important carrier of Chinese spiritual culture. Throughout the history of human civilization, Chinese culture has unique ideas, wisdom, tolerance and charm, which has added a high degree of self-confidence and incomparable pride to the Chinese nation.

Many people equate Sinology with China’s traditional culture, which is unscientific and imprecise. They are two different concepts. The connotation of traditional culture is much broader, including material culture (such as utensils, clothing, food, architecture, etc.), institutional ritual culture and spiritual culture (knowledge, belief, art, religion, philosophy, law, morality, etc.); Traditional Chinese studies, however, is only a part of China’s traditional culture, and its scope is relatively narrow.

The so-called "national studies" are relative to western learning and new learning. At the end of Qing Dynasty, when European and American academics entered China, people called China’s inherent knowledge "Sinology", which generally refers to Chinese traditional culture and academics with Confucianism as the main body. Liang Qichao said that sinology is a knowledge about moral character, that is, a knowledge to sharpen one’s own character and virtue. In terms of disciplines, Chinese studies include today’s philosophy, history, religion, literature, manners and customs, textual research, ethics, edition, etc. In terms of ideology, there are three schools of thought, namely, pre-Qin hundred schools of thought, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism. For a long time, Confucianism has run through and dominated the history of China’s thoughts, while others are subordinate.

Theoretically speaking, Chinese traditional culture has three pillars: Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism. Confucianism and Taoism are indigenous and first produced in China. After the Eastern Han Dynasty, the Chinese classics, Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, the introduction and spread of Buddhism, and Confucianism and Taoism formed a three-legged situation. As the traditional wisdom of Chinese life, they interacted and complemented each other. Confucianism stresses the enterprising spirit of joining the WTO, emphasizes vigorous and promising, and aims to cultivate self-cultivation, rule the country, and take the world as its own responsibility; Taoism pays attention to spiritual detachment, natural Taoism, calm and smooth, inaction, soft and rigid, and static braking. Buddhism pays attention to being born, emphasizing that everything is empty, eliminating interference, turning troubles into bodhi, indifferent to fame and fortune, and "putting down is the best." Once upon a time, there was a saying: "Treat the mind with Buddhism, the body with Taoism, and the world with Confucianism." (filial piety in Southern Song Dynasty)

History is a process of inheritance and accumulation, and the present and future of a nation are extensions of history. Some historical and cultural essays, with the help of the accumulation of historical materials, treat the exhaustion of the soul and make up for the absence of the spirit, obliterate the characteristics of prose expressing individuality and revealing oneself, regard the historical materials that should be the background as the main body of the article, and fail to see the dimension of spiritual display. In my writing, I pay special attention to strengthening the subjective consciousness, focusing on the pertinence of reality, and strive to infuse new insights, new discoveries, true temperament and sense of reality into historical materials.

Historical and cultural prose should be a mixture of literature and history, and it is an organic integration of philosophy, poetry and historical writing. They should rely on historical events, seek the source of passion from poetic nature, and obtain the ladder of sublimation on the philosophical level. Through the marriage of literature and history, the youthful smile of literature brings vitality and beauty, vitality and passion to the cold and solemn historical old man; After reading the vicissitudes of history, the literary beauty gets the enlightenment like the morning bell and the evening drum, adding a huge spiritual impact on the aesthetic value.

When writing the book "Context", on the premise of accurately understanding ancient books, I used prose forms and literary techniques to explain the facts and show the spiritual outlook of the characters; Try to set up some tension fields, information sources and shock waves, so that vivid images, vivid interesting things and thought-provoking inquiries can be danced from time to time, and strive to avoid the stagnation and rigidity of pure political theory, and reasoning will become a proper wake-up call or a necessary adjustment to lyric and narrative. This kind of "reason" comes from the perception of life and has a strong personality color. In this way, history has also become smart and full of fresh vitality.

The Chinese context is vast. We have entered the profound China culture, the complicated and changeable real world and the surging spiritual world.

Scientific movement, protect your heart.

According to the latest China Cardiovascular Health and Disease Report 2021 released by the National Cardiovascular Center,Two out of every five deaths due to illness in China died of cardiovascular diseases.

Cardiac rehabilitation is an important means to treat stable cardiovascular diseases and prevent recurrent cardiovascular events. Therefore, it is imperative to fully understand the role of scientific exercise in promoting cardiovascular health and actively carry out cardiac rehabilitation.

A simple analogy:The heart is as important to the human body as the engine is to all kinds of machines and needs regular maintenance.Cardiac rehabilitation is like guiding everyone to use and maintain this engine of human body, ensuring the vitality of the engine, thus improving the quality of life.

Who needs cardiac rehabilitation?

A large number of studies have shown that exercise is beneficial to cardiovascular health.Healthy people and sub-healthy people can reduce the incidence of cardiovascular events by developing active and scientific exercise habits.

Exercise mode:You can choose moderate-intensity aerobic exercise, that is, a rhythmic exercise type that uses large muscle groups of the whole body.Such as swimming, cycling, running and skipping rope.

Tip 1:Everyone’s basal heart rate and peak heart rate vary greatly. For women over 50 years old, men over 40 years old and patients with weak health, an in-depth heart examination should be done before starting exercise rehabilitation."Cardiopulmonary Exercise Test"It can measure everyone’s anaerobic threshold heart rate and peak heart rate, and at the same time, it can more accurately determine the "warning line" of the maximum heart rate during exercise, and judge the heart rate interval corresponding to different exercise intensities.

Tip 2:People who don’t exercise for a long time should followstep by stepThe principle, let the heart and blood vessels gradually adapt, beware of excessive fatigue to increase the risk of cardiovascular events, but also avoid joint muscle damage.

Tip 3:Overweight people should adopt a combination of nutrition and exercise.Controlling energy intake is a necessary means to lose weight, but excessive control of energy will reduce lean body weight (fat-free body weight, the weight of other body components except fat). It is suggested that overweight people lose 5% ~ 10% weight within 6 ~ 12 months. Overweight people need longer aerobic exercise to consume fat, and the recommended aerobic exercise time is 45 ~ 60 minutes. Resistance training can consume more energy. It is better to combine aerobic exercise with resistance exercise.

After the winter, some sports-related sudden deaths have attracted people’s attention, especially the sudden death of young employees of a company in Shanghai outside the gym, which makes people feel awkward. Studies have confirmed that lack of exercise or unreasonable exercise are important factors leading to cardiovascular events. Here are some special precautions about "protecting the heart" in the scientific movement:

oneIf you have chest pain, dizziness, overwork, shortness of breath, excessive sweating, nausea and vomiting and irregular pulse during exercise,Exercise should be stopped immediately.The above symptoms still persist after stopping exercise, especially after stopping exercise for 5 ~ 6 minutes, the heart rate still increases, so you should seek medical advice in time.

2The elderly should choose moderate and low intensity exercise and appropriately increase daily physical activity; You can also carry out traditional rehabilitation training such as Tai Ji Chuan and Baduanjin.The exercise time is relatively shortened or prolonged according to the degree of fatigue,The general exercise duration is 30 ~ 60 minutes/day.

threePatients who are weak in the early stage after cardiac surgery can start with breathing training. Respiratory training can prevent pulmonary complications, promote sputum discharge, effectively increase vital capacity and improve lung function. Adopt abdominal breathing mode, that is, the abdomen bulges after inhaling the nose and adducts after exhaling.When exercising, you can inhale through the nose and exhale through the mouth, take a deep breath and try to prolong the breathing time.The practice of lip-shrinking and exhaling is also an important part of breathing training. It emphasizes that when inhaling, breathe in slowly through the nose, and breathe out after holding your breath a little (similar to blowing candles). The ratio of inhalation time to exhalation time is 1: 2. 10 times per group, 5 groups per day. Some low-intensity exercises, such as walking and limb training, start with 10 minutes/time, 2 ~ 3 times a day, and then gradually increase to the target amount of exercise.

fourNo matter what kind of exercise,The intensity of exercise needs to start from a low intensity,When the individual gradually adapts, he will gradually increase to the target exercise intensity for exercise.

Source: Popular Health magazine

Author: Fan Denghuang, Department of Rehabilitation Medicine, First Affiliated Hospital of Zhejiang University School of Medicine

Audit: Expert of National Health Science Popularization Expert Database

Wang Fang, chief physician, Department of Cardiology, Beijing Hospital

Planning: Wu Weihong Tan Jia

Editor: Yu Yunxi

Dress in fashion, not in price.

The beauty of human beings consists of three parts, namely, innate beauty, beautiful clothes, and beautiful manners and temperament. This article focuses on the beauty of dress.

It is generally believed that people look beautiful when they wear fashion.

However, now many people have realized that wearing fashionable clothes does not necessarily mean that clothes are expensive. Wearing expensive clothes does not necessarily mean that people are naturally beautiful.

People dress in fashion.

Mainly refers to the color of clothes and fabrics, and the clothes are fashionable. The most important factor is that the clothes people wear are appropriate and suitable. Pay attention to people’s hobbies, and wear clothes suitable for their body shape, skin color, professional characteristics, communication habits, psychological personality and so on. Not a fashionable dress looks beautiful on anyone.

Dressing in fashion does not mean that clothes are expensive.

Many people think that they have little money, and wearing expensive clothes will not reflect fashion, nor will it be beautiful. This statement is biased. Some stars go out, go to the entertainment stage, and go to interpersonal public places, showing great fashion. Everyone thinks that the clothes and accessories they wear are very expensive and piled up with money.

Actually, not completely. There are many celebrities wearing clothes that are cheaper, not as expensive as people think. Dong Qing, a famous program host, once said that some clothes she wears are only 50 yuan or a hundred pieces.

We often see the host of the program, wearing ordinary clothes. In contrast, some people are bent on buying high-end clothes, spending thousands of dollars on a dress and hundreds or thousands of dollars on a scarf. Do outsiders think fashion is beautiful in others’ eyes? Not really.

How to make yourself look fashionable and beautiful.

01 Follow the trend appropriately. Dressing in fashion can pay attention to the current recognition of members of society. Look at what people tend to wear, and wear it with them.

For example, young people love to wear jeans and feel energetic. The elderly people also wear jeans, and they still have a sense of fashion. It is also fashionable that some jeans manufacturers deliberately make knees or trouser legs into "rotten whiskers".

Be creative and fashionable. It is fashionable to dress up as a style and style by your own vision and appreciation, and be imitated by others.

For example, a lady will buy a silk scarf for seven or eight yuan, and it is typical fashion to boldly appear in the street to attract admiration with a kind of tying method she imagines, which matches her self-demeanor and self-confidence.

How to make the combination of wearing and human body beautiful and attractive.

The charm of people, after all, is graceful, beautiful, attractive and penetrating in interpersonal relationships, but also has personality shock and warmth.

To have this comprehensive charm, people must pay attention to their appearance. Dress neatly, pay special attention to appropriateness and collocation. We should also pay attention to the beauty of language posture.

Some people only wear expensive clothes, which are famous brands. They don’t pay attention to people’s self-cultivation. They talk too much, are rude, talk too much, dance too much, etc. Not only are they not beautiful, but they are also "ugly".

Read the history of the world in 3 minutes to help you gain knowledge!

For a long time, the Silk Road has been simply regarded as a trade channel connecting East and West. However, Peter Franco Pan, a professor at Oxford University, put forward a subversive view in his new book, The Silk Road: A Brand-new World History:

The importance of the Silk Road goes far beyond the trade channel. In fact, the Silk Road has shaped the past of mankind and will certainly affect the future of the world.

From four ancient civilizations, three religions and wars in human history to today’s the belt and road initiative, Franco Pan described the intricate relationship between the Silk Road and world civilization from ancient times to the present. The following excerpts from the Silk Road will give you three minutes to understand world history.

Silk Road and Four Ancient Civilizations

Ancient Babylon

Since the beginning of civilization, the Silk Road has been the cradle of empire. The Mesopotamian alluvial plain bred by the Tigris River and the Euphrates River provided soil for the emergence of human civilization, and it was here that the world’s earliest towns and cities were born. Almost 4000 years ago, King Hammurabi of Babylon promulgated the earliest written law in the world here.

Ancient Egypt

Ptolemy, the guard officer who accompanied Alexander the Great in his expedition, brought wealth from the Silk Road to Egypt and established a capital named Alexandria. According to a contemporary scholar, Alexandria has developed into the largest city in the world at that time, with a population of 300,000 in the 1st century BC.

Ancient India

Mohenjodaro, nearly 5,000 years ago on the Silk Road, is a miracle of the ancient world, with tens of thousands of urban population, criss-crossing streets and sophisticated sewage system, which cannot be compared with Europe thousands of years later. The Silk Road also linked India and Rome. A large number of coins found on the west coast of India can be traced back to the period of Augustus.

Ancient China

In the Han Dynasty, after many campaigns, China people drove the Xiongnu back to the grassland and seized the Hexi Corridor, which opened the door for a transcontinental communication channel-the "Silk Road" was born. The expansion of the territory aroused China people’s interest in the outside world, and the high-priced silk trade made China people get rich returns.

The Silk Road and Three Major Religions

Buddhism

The scenery of cultural exchange on the Silk Road is amazing. In India, it was not until the worship of Apollo was established that the statue of Buddha began to appear: the statue seems to be based on the image of Apollo, which shows the deep influence of Greek culture. Before that, Buddhists were never willing to show their faces and make public, but now religious competition forces them to reform and innovate.

Christianity

Christianity spread rapidly eastward along the Silk Road, overwhelmed Zoroastrianism, Judaism and Buddhism, and marched straight into Asia, and soon spread all over the Persian Gulf and as far away as the area ruled by Guishuang-that is, it has reached today’s Afghanistan.

Islamism

After conquering the Silk Road, Muslims gathered a lot of wealth and set off the most unforgettable academic research upsurge in history.

Many scholars were summoned to the Palace in Baghdad or attracted to the top academic centers all over Central Asia, engaged in mathematics, philosophy, physics, geography and other research. At that time, the radicals were not Muslims, but Christians; At that time, those wise men who were open-minded, curious and generous were all on the Silk Road, not Europe and America.

Silk Road and Global Economy

economic globalization

Along the Silk Road more than 2,000 years ago, in Carthage and other cities around the Mediterranean, the rich and powerful can wear silk handmade in China; Pottery produced in southern France can be found in England and the Persian Gulf. In kitchens in Xinjiang and Rome, condiments from India can be used; Greek characters can be carved on buildings in northern Afghanistan; In the east, you can see galloping horses in Central Asia.

We usually regard globalization as a unique phenomenon in contemporary society, but as early as two thousand years ago, globalization was already a fact, which provided opportunities, brought problems and promoted technological progress.

Great discovery of America

After the 16th century, with Columbus discovery of america, Europe got a lot of silver from America. The Silver Road encircles the world like a ribbon, but in the end it all flows to the same place through the Silk Road: China.

At the same time, Chinese porcelain and silk are very popular in Europe. With the influx of silver, the culture of the Ming Empire was unprecedentedly prosperous, with novels, operas, paintings and philosophy shining brilliantly. However, due to its inability to control inflation, the Ming Empire eventually collapsed.

The British Empire dominates.

In the 16th century, the success of Spain and Portugal frustrated the British. In order to gain a place on the Silk Road, Britain established some new trading companies, such as the Turkish company and the East India company. These companies all obtained royal charters, plundered the wealth on the Silk Road by their monopoly position, and finally created the glory of the empire that never sets.

Silk Road and Human War

Roman Persian war

For the Romans, if the empire wants to grow, it must have a large number of cities, thus collecting enough taxes; If the empire wants to be brilliant, it must have artists and craftsmen. These did not exist in the barren European continent at that time. In order to build a powerful empire, the Romans must control the heart of the world-the Silk Road. In order to achieve this goal, Rome and Persia fought for 400 years.

The crusades

Although the 200-year-long Crusade is regarded as a religious war, there is a more important secular power behind it-the infinite wealth on the Silk Road. Relying on the opportunity of the crusade, cities such as Venice rose to become upstarts on the Silk Road, and the west also re-entered the core area of the world.

The Mongols are coming.

The Mongolian iron hoof conquered almost the whole Eurasia along the Silk Road. As well known as the horrible massacre, it is the wisdom of Mongols to rule the world.

They encouraged trade across Europe and Asia on the Silk Road with low tax rates, eliminated ethnic barriers on the Silk Road with military rule, promoted the integration of eastern and western civilizations, and created freedom and prosperity of religious belief on the Silk Road with tolerant policies.

Nazi road

On August 23, 1939, the Soviet Union and Nazi Germany signed the Soviet-German Non-aggression Treaty, although the alliance between the two countries was incredible. But in fact, Stalin compromised with Germany in order to gain time, and he needed time to restore the turbulent country.

The other ally, Hitler, was for wheat and oil located in the south of the Soviet Union, two crops located at the western end of the Silk Road, which were extremely scarce in Germany.

Hitler’s original wishful thinking was to form an alliance with the Soviet Union, which provided supplies. Unexpectedly, after the war began, Stalin did not fully support Germany, but fell to the allies. In the end, Hitler was forced on an adventurous road to invade the Soviet Union, which doomed the collapse of the Third Reich.

Today, despite frequent wars and constant frictions, the Silk Road passes through Islam and other places, but in Peter Franco Pan’s view, its important role in natural resources, geographical location, history and culture still exists, and the Silk Road is reviving.

Looking at the history of China from the perspective of "Forbidden City"

Author: Guo Mei Jin Xiahui

The historical documentary "Forbidden City" takes the Forbidden City as the clue and the change as the breakthrough point. Through 12 chapters, it tells the important historical events in the 600-year history of Ming and Qing Dynasties, summarizes the gains and losses in historical development, and presents the valuable wisdom of the Chinese nation. It not only emphasizes the integrity of the Chinese nation, but also shows the characteristics of the Chinese nation different from other civilizations, leading the audience to inquire about the vicissitudes of history and pursue the cultural roots.

The documentary "Forbidden City" stands in the perspective of great history, jumping out of the red wall and green tiles to tell the historical situation related to the "Forbidden City". For example, through the comparison of Chinese and foreign civilizations, the characteristics of the Chinese nation can be expressed. The eighth episode of "The Prosperous Age" tells the story of the British envoy Magalny’s visit to China, emphasizing the mutual gifts from China and Britain-Jade Ruyi and Mauser Gun, and pointing out that "Gun and Ruyi represent their respective cultural positions" to illustrate the potential strength and etiquette civilization of the Chinese nation. For example, through the comparison of Chinese and foreign civilizations in the changing situation, we can sum up the historical lessons of the Chinese nation. The sixth episode "Afterglow" introduces the change of silver shortage caused by the exhaustion of silver mines in various countries, and points out that European countries established a rudimentary modern monetary system and financial system due to silver shortage, while the Ming Dynasty experienced economic recession due to silver shortage. This proves the serious harm of arrogance and conservative thinking and summarizes the painful historical lessons.

"As a historical documentary, how to guide the audience to fully, deeply and clearly understand history, respect history, form a sense of history, and drive contemporary people to pursue and inquire about history is a crucial creative proposition." The Forbidden City adopts a popular way to express the charm of Chinese culture. Among them, the most representative is the ingenious combination of cultural relics and history, and the wonderful contrast between historical stories and theme songs. The film is good at seeing the big from the small and showing the macro history through the details of cultural relics. For example, the second episode "Inheritance" uses the horses in Li Gonglin’s "Pasturing in Wei Yan", a cultural relic of the Palace Museum, to show the characteristics of martial arts in the early Ming Dynasty. At the same time, the film also makes the characters in the picture scroll move through modern technology. For example, the first episode of "The King" makes the ancients in "The Emperor Accumulates Victory" walk, and with passionate music and simulated street noise, it shows the bustling street scene in history. This artistic treatment obviously touched the audience, and some netizens pointed out the details of men wearing pink clothes in the picture scroll in the barrage, indicating that the expression of the dynamic picture scroll aroused the audience’s interest and concern about the living customs of the Ming Dynasty. As Wu Zhiyong, the general director of the film, said, "Cultural relics are evidence, not for display". The previous documentaries on the theme of the Forbidden City mentioned cultural relics, which seemed to show the manufacturing process or artistic value of cultural relics themselves, rather than introducing related historical stories. For example, the seventh episode of the Forbidden City, Painting and Calligraphy in the Forbidden City, introduces the creation and preservation of paintings and calligraphy.Instead of focusing on the objective world revealed by the contents of calligraphy and painting. It can be seen that the Forbidden City shows the Chinese civilization more vividly and strengthens the audience’s perceptual knowledge of the Chinese nation through the historical information carried by cultural relics.

In recent years, the number of documentaries on the theme of the Forbidden City is quite large, which can be roughly divided into three categories: grand theme category, micro theme category and specific characters category. Among them, The Forbidden City (2005) is narrated based on several grand themes, from the macro perspectives of architectural art, use function, collection of cultural relics and the evolution process from the palace to the museum, showing all aspects of palace architecture, precious cultural relics, fate of characters and palace life, and emphasizing the value of the Forbidden City as a common historical and cultural heritage of mankind. Since then, When the Louvre meets the Forbidden City (2010) and The Forbidden City 100 (2012) have been narrated around micro-themes: the former deduces the art history of the East and the West in different time and space backgrounds, and emphasizes the valuable value of the exchange between Chinese and Western civilizations; The latter, based on the practical value of the Forbidden City building, expresses the aesthetic value and cultural connotation of the palace building with creative commentary and images in the form of micro-documentary. I am repairing cultural relics in the Forbidden City (2016), New Things in the Forbidden City (2017) and I am in the Forbidden City for 600 years (2020) record the daily work of cultural relics workers in the Forbidden City. They all focus on the stories of cultural relics protectors, which not only show the spirit of craftsmen, but also show the understanding of cultural relics by cultural relics restorers-the spirit of utensils that carry the Tao with things.

Looking at the documentaries on the theme of the Forbidden City since this century, we can find that its development vein presents the following two important characteristics, that is, not only its vision has undergone a "macro-micro-macro" evolution, but its expression mode is getting younger and younger. Among them, the change of vision is from the broad perspective at the beginning, to the interpretation of specific aesthetic values and cultural connotations, to the personal perspective of cultural relics protectors, and finally, to the grand perspective of the Chinese nation. The trend of younger expression is particularly obvious in the Forbidden City 100, I am repairing cultural relics in the Forbidden City and the Forbidden City. "Forbidden City 100" is a micro-documentary with a single episode of no more than six minutes, which meets the viewing needs of young people in a fast-paced society; The dedicated spirit of the elderly restorer and the youthful vitality of his disciples in "I am repairing cultural relics in the Forbidden City" have aroused the resonance of many young audiences; The theme song at the end of the Forbidden City has greatly expanded the audience by virtue of the singer’s social influence and the genre with both ancient meaning and popular elements.

The emergence of these two characteristics is related to the change of social environment. First of all, the rapid development of social economy has given birth to multiple values and the evolution of "macro-micro" vision. At present, the rapid development of world economy and technology requires us to re-examine and establish the spirit and identity of the Chinese nation, which has given birth to the transformation of "micro-macro" vision. Secondly, the ever-changing consumer society has also widened the differences in viewing habits between young people and middle-aged and elderly people. Documentary creators need to attract young audiences with younger expressions to further realize the social value of documentaries.

Looking back on the development of documentaries on the theme of the Forbidden City, we can see that people’s understanding of Chinese civilization is also deepening: from the overall grand impression to the specific artistic value, aesthetic value and cultural concept, to the craftsman spirit and utensils spirit of cultural relics protectors, to the survival wisdom of the Chinese nation shown in The Forbidden City. This cognitive process also reflects the mental outlook and value orientation of the Chinese nation in different historical stages. For example, "Forbidden City" no longer only shows the interior of the Chinese nation, but focuses on the history of the Chinese nation in a global perspective, and lets the audience see the vicissitudes and splendor of Chinese culture with the help of younger expressions.

Specially published by Shanghai Literature and Art Review Special Fund

Source: Jiefang Daily

Ouyang Zhongshi: What is culture? What is the core of culture?

What is culture? There are many experts who have defined it. There are hundreds of kinds in ancient and modern times, at home and abroad. Everyone always talks about a certain aspect of "culture", but it has not been fully summarized, so it is more troublesome to define it. Modern Chinese Dictionary explains culture as the sum of material wealth and spiritual wealth created by human beings in the process of social and historical development. If we understand it according to this definition, there is probably nothing that is not cultural, good or bad, and almost everything we can see can be classified into the category of culture. As for how culture came into being, why it came into being and why it came into being, there is no answer. Now, let’s analyze and study the word "culture".

Culture is the pursuit of beauty by human beings.

To make all kinds of things in society have a good meaning is called "taking culture as its foundation"; Let it become beautiful and make it "beautiful". This is called "culture". Starting from good wishes and pursuing practical actions, we finally get a good result, which must be the crystallization of "culture".

From the beginning of existence, human beings always hope that the present will be better than the past, and tomorrow will be better than today. It can be seen that the pursuit of beauty is the desire of human beings and the goal that human beings will always pursue. It is human nature to pursue a beautiful desire. This desire for beauty is not only human, but also common animals, such as monkeys, cats, rabbits and dogs. Therefore, we say that this is a kind of nature of species, that is to say, this is an inevitable pursuit of the survival of a "living thing". However, this desire is limited by nature and bound by heaven and earth. From the nature, everything between heaven and earth exists objectively, regardless of human will, and they have their own operating rules. Living in nature, human beings should also obey some laws in nature, and form some laws and rules that everyone abides by in social life. In the Book of Changes, it is said that "the sky is strong and the terrain is Kun". This has summed up everything in nature. Kun means Shun. Heaven and earth are constantly running. The sky should be strong and the earth should be smooth. Everything on the earth, including human beings, requires "smoothness". Heaven and earth require "harmony", and if human beings want to be beautiful, they must also "harmony". Find a word to describe "beauty" and "harmony", and we in China will find the word "Wen". Literature is the meaning of beauty and harmony.

What is the word Wen? The Book of Changes says: "The phases are mixed, so it is called Wen." "Za" was originally written as "Fu" (we simplified it as "Za"), with the word "Yi" on the left and the word "Ji" on the right. In terms of word-making, it means that there are many birds flying on a tree and wearing all kinds of clothes, which are very beautiful, that is, "味味". In other words, a variety of appearances and things are gathered together and colorful, which is called "Wen". In addition, there is another explanation, which says in the Book of Rites: "Five colors are written." All colors are gathered together, which is "Wen". All kinds of colors are gathered together, but they are not randomly piled up, but have their own rules, so we also say "articles". All kinds of things get together, and they are not chaotic and organized. This is called "Wen", which is a beautiful symbol.

To make all kinds of things in society have a good meaning is called "taking culture as its foundation"; Let it become beautiful and make it "beautiful". This is called "culture". All material wealth is created by people, and our spiritual wealth also appears for beauty, so we use a word "Wen" to describe it. Can we understand that all the beautiful things (whether material or spiritual) created by human beings, as well as all the efforts made to achieve beauty and all the ideas for development towards beauty, are all cultures? Therefore, a good wish is culture; Pursuing beautiful practical actions is also culture; Starting from good wishes and pursuing practical actions, we finally get a good result, which must be the crystallization of "culture".

In this way, all the wishes, actions and results of people’s lives, which are getting better day by day, can be covered in culture. Therefore, the meaning mentioned in the dictionary can be interpreted as: in the historical process of human society, all material wealth and spiritual wealth belong to culture, or culture can be said to be the sum of material wealth and spiritual wealth. I think my understanding may depend on a little spectrum, or at least touch a little edge.

Having said that, I also want to make an important explanation: after "beauty", the word "harmony" must be added. Since culture is the pursuit of beauty. You also pursue, I also pursue, he also pursues, it should be said that this is a common pursuit of all mankind. Since it is the common pursuit of all mankind, it is inevitable that they will collide with each other. In order for everyone to get "beauty", we should make a code of conduct to ensure that everyone can get "beauty". This norm must ensure that everyone is "beautiful", which requires everyone to live in harmony, and everyone should be humble, tolerant, tolerant and respectful.

Chinese culture is developed.

Chinese culture is increasingly rich, novel, thick and huge. But the general direction that runs through the center will never change, which is the core of Chinese culture-beauty and harmony, eliminating evil. I hope that all mankind will move towards the most ideal and beautiful harmony together.

The world, from the beginning of human beings, is pursuing beauty. What is created and formed in the process of pursuit, whether material or spiritual, is the crystallization of the pursuit of beauty. So, how to understand Chinese culture? Analysis, in Chinese culture, some of them are native to China, or are inherent, such as our "classics" and "transmission". There is also a part that comes with the historical development of society. For example, we didn’t have a fire, we didn’t know how to use it, and we didn’t eat cooked food. Later, we gradually found that food tastes better when cooked, and the use of fire is wide, so we can keep warm and cook. We have also built many houses and planted crops, which are our material wealth. In the ideological and spiritual field, there are many books, music and paintings, which are our wealth. These are all created and developed by our Chinese nation. Everyone knows that Chinese culture is profound and profound, because we have a long history and a large population. On the land of China, our wisdom has naturally condensed into a set of cultural characteristics suitable for ourselves in the continuous progress. To put it bluntly, we Chinese sons and daughters have enough ability to pursue beauty and harmony step by step! Our long history has proved this. In the long historical process, our ability has gradually accumulated with the development of society. Since the pre-Qin period, the growth of new content has never stopped. No matter the Han, Wei, Six Dynasties, Sui, Tang, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, or even modern and contemporary times, every era has its unique contribution and a little fresh knowledge has grown up.That is to say: in addition to the original inherent culture, with the progress of the times, a large part of the cultural accumulation has increased.

Part of our culture is absorbed from the outside, or introduced from the outside. Even if it came from the outside, we absorbed it, transformed it and developed it. Especially after the Ming Dynasty, foreign cultures from other regions poured in, which added new contents to our long-term self-developed culture. China people are not afraid of wealth, and China people do not refuse foreign wealth. They first introduce it, then combine it, and then "transform" it, and finally it is no longer easy to distinguish it clearly. For example, after Buddhism in India and Zen in Indian Buddhism spread to China, China people conducted research and development, resulting in the formation of Chinese Buddhism. China’s Zen is a fusion and has become a part of Chinese culture. It is precisely because our Chinese culture has such tolerance, absorption and digestion, and it is precisely because we have such a trilogy of "introduction, combination and melting" with foreign cultures that our Chinese culture has formed a life force with its own characteristics, which is developing at any time and is good at integration. Therefore, Chinese culture is becoming more and more huge, all-encompassing, all-inclusive, profound and profound. Inherent, developed and integrated, these three aspects make our Chinese culture more comprehensive. Of course, the status and emphasis of these three aspects in Chinese culture are not exactly the same in different times, but in the final analysis, these integrated cultures are still harmonious, which constitutes our Chinese culture.

Some people say that our cultural development is not fast enough or advanced enough, is that right? I think the progress of Chinese culture is by no means slow! Gunpowder was invented by China people, and it was also the most advanced at that time, but we didn’t develop it later. Is it because China people are not smart? I don’t think so, because we in China simply don’t want to make a weapon with powerful lethality. The pursuit of Chinese culture is to avoid war and misfortune. The pursuit is to move forward more steadily. Therefore, I feel that Chinese culture is firmly grasping the "beauty" and "harmony" and moving forward. I would rather take one step slowly and take one step less than those inappropriate paths.

Therefore, the Chinese nation has formed its own inherent culture, which is a very complete system. With the development of history, it is constantly developing and expanding, and it is also constantly absorbing and melting with the development of the world. Chinese culture is increasingly rich, novel, thick and huge. But the general direction that runs through the center will never change, which is the core of Chinese culture-beauty and harmony, eliminating evil. I hope that all mankind will move towards the most ideal and beautiful harmony together.

What is the core of Chinese culture?

The words "benevolence, virtue, courtesy, law, culture and harmony" summarize the core content and basic characteristics of our Chinese culture, and the common pursuit of all nationalities and people in the world is nothing more than this. Knowing this, we will understand the vitality of Chinese culture.

Chinese culture pursues beauty, and all its development is towards "better and more harmonious day by day". Therefore, I think beauty and harmony are the core requirements of culture and Chinese culture. It is difficult to get along fairly and harmoniously like this, and to achieve the beautiful harmony of all mankind without a common agreement and a common norm. Our sages have long known this problem, and they put forward some requirements and norms. We can analyze it through a few Chinese characters.

The first is "benevolence". "Benevolence" occupies an unshakable core position in Chinese traditional culture. If you take the word "benevolence" apart, it is two people. People should love each other, and this "benevolence" is love.

Followed by "virtue"; The word "virtue" should be written straight on the right side except the heart, so the ancients often said that "straight heart is virtue" "Straight" is integrity, and upright is "virtue". "Virtue" requires a lot. Adding the word "heart" is to explain thoughts, and adding "worry" is to explain actions. That is to say, integrity is required in both thoughts and actions. This is the meaning of "virtue". "Virtue" has been mentioned in Zhuangzi, which means "virtue". Things are born, which is called virtue. Morality is a special power. Although it is not a thing, it is a very unusual internal energy force. This kind of power will make things grow and make things successful. Visible is a power that can enhance life and promote success. How can we explain this power? I realize that it is a kind of "strength", and it seems easier to understand that it is an "opportunity". In the language of ordinary people, especially in Beijing dialect, there is a saying: "Come on!" Sometimes it is reduced to one word: "Yes!" Just saying: ok! It’s done! Everything was successful and reached a very "suitable" situation. This statement is exactly the true meaning of "de". It must also be explained that this "gain" refers not only to one aspect, but to all aspects. It is the requirement of "getting" that is suitable in any way. In order to ensure a comprehensive "win", all aspects must follow certain principles, which falls on this "virtue".

On the winter solstice, it was also called "Germany and Japan" in ancient times. From this day on, the days became longer, which is the law of celestial bodies. "Yin declines and Yang rises", and everything began to grow. This day is also called "prosperous day", that is, it begins to grow. Therefore, "things can be born"-if things have "virtue", they begin to grow; "Things can be done"-things can be successful. "Virtue" is a good word to help people and things grow vigorously.

How can a beautiful "text" achieve a comprehensive "culture"? We must rely on "virtue". Chinese culture can have such vitality and cohesion, which is inseparable from the word "virtue". It can also be said that virtue is an essential core in Chinese culture.

We pay attention to "benevolence" in order to ensure a comprehensive "beautiful and harmonious" requirement. It can be said that "benevolence" is the core of Chinese culture. In order to ensure the normal development of "benevolence" and "morality", we need to do standardized activities and then make it a system, which leads to "ceremony" and "law"

How can people achieve "benevolence" and "virtue" and move into a standardized system? There is a way-that is "transformation". The word "Hua" is amazing. No matter how you look at it, there are two people, one is upside down and the other is red-handed. In this way, the word can’t be inverted, and everything is correct. This "transformation" can be both negative and positive, that is to say, it can be reconciled and dissolved, and it can be established in all cases. This should be a channel to a better state. There are many things that can be solved as long as they are "transformed".

We have been using and following the law of "transformation", or this principle. Why is Chinese culture more and more extensive, more and more profound, with a long history and enduring prosperity? First of all, because it is the pursuit of all mankind, it represents the common and beautiful aspirations of all mankind; Secondly, it is the strong inclusiveness and integration, culture and power of Chinese culture. Because in the process of cultural development, it is impossible without collision. The fear of collision lies in coordination and how to solve it. It boils down to two kinds, one is to let and the other is to rob. Rob no good results, today’s winner, tomorrow may be a loser, today’s loser may be a winner tomorrow. Fighting and looting is not a good way to solve the problem, and it is not as good as a word "Hua". Through a word "Hua", we can resolve, harmonize and transform and move forward in harmony. We have "transformed" many things, and by "transforming", we have formed a big multi-ethnic family.

All this comes down to one word-"harmony", which is the highest realm that people pursue. This "harmony" is not that "combination" Harmony is two things, or many different things are very harmonious and harmonious, such as various musical instruments, which play and sing to form a beautiful melody, but it is not that two different things have lost themselves. For example, people’s wishes and demands are varied, but it is indeed possible to achieve unity. Unity here does not mean synthesizing "one", but achieving agreement, that is, achieving harmony. Combination is to add two different things together, dissolve them and lose yourself. "Harmony" is the fusion of two different things, each with its own characteristics and living in peace. Everything in the world is different, and everyone is different, so we should advocate harmony. Only harmony can last.

In our thoughts and actions, we should respect morality, etiquette and law, and finally reach the realm of "harmony" through "culture". Therefore, I believe that the words "benevolence, morality, courtesy, law, culture and harmony" summarize the core content and basic characteristics of our Chinese culture, and the common pursuit of all nationalities and people in the world is nothing more than this. Knowing this, we will understand the vitality of Chinese culture.

Transferred from Ouyang Zhongshi’s "Culture Man Tan"

Early project

Wen | Yao Lan

Clean Beauty is becoming a new fashion trend.

NPD, a well-known American market research organization, announced the impact of the COVID-19 epidemic on the beauty industry. The data showed that the sales of beauty products dropped by 14%, but the sales of pure beauty products rose by 11% against the trend. According to Tmall data, during the period of June 18 this year, the sub-categories such as essence, mask, cleansing and makeup remover under Tmall International Pure Beauty category all increased by more than 100% year-on-year.

What is "pure beauty"? In August this year, Tmall International Beauty and COSMOHits, the beauty media, made a clear definition of the concept of "pure beauty" for the first time, including four aspects: harmless addition of ingredients, environmental friendliness and zero harm, animal friendliness and cruelty, and sustainable environmental protection and zero waste.

Since 2020, foreign big beauty groups have invested in adding more pure beauty tracks (for example, Shiseido Group acquired Drunk Elephant, a brand of pure beauty and skin care, for US$ 845 million, and Unilever acquired Tatcha for US$ 500 million), and domestic pure beauty brands also came into being.

36Kr recently came into contact with China pure beauty brand "Dewy Lab Yiyi", which was founded in 2020, aimed at the core consumer groups such as sensitive muscles, pregnant women, medical beauty crowd and new white-collar workers, focusing on cosmetic products with both "pure ingredients" and "excellent makeup effect" and advocating a romantic feeling of "self-satisfaction". It is understood that "Dewy Lab" won the "Blogger’s Choice" Award in Little Red Book 2021WILL Future Brand Award.

The picture is provided by the enterprise.

Dewy Lab launched its first new product "Morning" series in January this year, including three single products: morning dew foundation cream, morning mist powder and morning glow blush cream. After launching the brand Tmall flagship store and the official applet, the monthly sales of single products have exceeded 10,000 at present.

Amber, the founder of Dewy Lab, told 36Kr that most cosmetic formulations on the market now are mainly designed with the basic goal of "beauty", focusing on makeup effect and skin feeling, regardless of whether the ingredients are harmful to the skin. "Dewy Lab Love" started from the first series, and its products focused on makeup, trying to give consumers peace of mind protection from the part closest to the skin.

The picture is provided by the enterprise.

The standard of pure make-up advocated by "Dewy Lab" includes three aspects:

First,user friendlyThat is, it does not contain harmful and controversial chemical components such as talcum powder, plastic beads, mineral oil, nipagin ester, etc. In order to provide unique pure beauty products, the brand will not only bring the research and discovery of raw materials and formulas by Chinese scientists in universities such as Cambridge University and University of Pennsylvania back to China, so as to speed up the product iteration, but also become a strategic partner with China Inspection Department to strictly control the formula of each product.

Second,Friendly life, that is, no animal experiments, and pet-friendly, playing licking is non-toxic. At this point, "Dewy Lab" hopes to help the development of front-end toxicology testing in the future.

Third,Environment friendlyAdvocate the recyclability and degradability of product packaging materials, take carbon neutrality as the ultimate goal, and constantly optimize production methods.

It is reported that the core team of Dewy Lab is from Cambridge University, University of Pennsylvania and Nanyang Technological University, and their main research directions are pharmacology, biochemistry and chemistry, which are closely related to the makeup formula and raw materials. On the basis of referring to the European and American brand purity standards, according to the front-end research results and credible academic journals, they have formulated and constantly updated the scientific, rigorous and systematic "Dewy Lab" brand purity standards.

At present, the brand has explored the triangular structure of product research and development: 1) the team of brand scientists strictly controls the use of raw materials to ensure the safety of ingredients; 2) Joint research and development with the formula laboratory to jointly break through the bottleneck of pure formula and ensure the exclusive use of formula; 3) Each product must be tried by top makeup artists in the industry to ensure excellent makeup effect and skin feel.

Amber said that at this stage, "Dewy Lab Love" mainly relies on social media to strengthen the spread of brand value proposition. In the future, we will continue to focus on the research and development of new products, bringing consumers more product choices and a more pleasant experience.

Create a good atmosphere of national fitness, and this badminton match is hot!

Recently, Changhai Road Sub-district Federation of Trade Unions held the third "Changhai Cup" staff badminton competition in 2023. All units in the jurisdiction actively signed up, and nearly 110 players from 23 teams gathered together to compete.

The competition adopts men’s singles, women’s singles and team competition system, and is carried out in the form of elimination. The scene of the competition was brilliant and climaxed. Players and groups competed at different levels. Players compared tactics, patience, jumping, backhand, smash and flowing, which fully demonstrated the indomitable, courageous and passionate spirit of Changhai employees and greeted the audience with cheers.

This competition has built a platform for Changhai employees to keep fit, and also provided opportunities for exchanges and discussions. Based on the principle of "civilization, friendship, hard work and progress", after two days of fierce competition, the top three players in the competition were finally decided, and the Street Federation of Trade Unions presented awards to the winners and groups respectively.

Text/picture: Chang Hai

Editor: Zhou Mengzhen

What is education? You will understand after reading these five points!

First, education is to squat down and talk to children. Education is to turn yourself into a child and turn the child into yourself.

In the journey of education, we often ignore an important detail, that is, the importance of equal dialogue with children. Squatting down to talk to children means that we should put down our posture and communicate with them in an equal manner. Only in this way can we truly understand their inner world and establish a close and trusting relationship.

Second, education is to listen to children’s voices.

Listening is an art and a kind of respect. In education, we should give children ample space to express themselves, listen to their voices and pay attention to their needs and ideas. Only by listening can we better understand children’s puzzles and problems and give them correct guidance and support.

Third, education is to let children become protagonists.

Every child is a unique individual, and they have their own interests, dreams and specialties. In education, we should respect children’s personality and make them the protagonists of learning. By stimulating their learning interest and potential, we can help them find their own advantages and values, thus cultivating confident, independent and creative individuals.

Fourth, education is companionship, not companionship.

Companionship is the most precious gift in education. In the process of children’s growth, we need to give them enough time and attention to share their happiness and difficulties with them. However, companionship is not only physical companionship, but also spiritual companionship. We should feel the emotional needs of children with our heart, give them warmth and support, and let them feel our love and care.

Fifth, education is to give children enough time to "think".

Children’s imagination is infinite, and their thinking often exceeds our imagination. In education, we should give children enough time to think and explore freely. Children can cultivate innovative thinking and problem-solving ability through "thinking in a whimsical way", thus laying a solid foundation for future development.

Education is a great cause, which concerns the growth and future of every child. It is necessary to create a loving and caring learning environment for children, so that they can thrive on the road of growth. Let’s work together to pave a bright road for the children’s future!

What is the future of domestic beauty products after taking stock of the double 11 list for 7 years?

The contest between domestic brands and international brands has always been a hot topic in the beauty industry.

In the past double 11, domestic brands finally won a staged victory: Polaiya won the first place in the beauty industry of Tmall and Tik Tok, and the first place in the beauty industry of JD.COM, which is the first time that domestic brands have topped the beauty list of Tmall double 11 since 2018. Earlier in October, Polaiya released the third quarter financial report, and the company’s revenue in the first three quarters reached 5.249 billion yuan, ranking first among cosmetics listed companies in China. From these perspectives, the industry pays attention to and studies Polaiya not only to find an answer for its success, but also to find the direction of the evolution of domestic beauty products.

At the same time, international brands are still aggressive. L ‘Oré al China’s double 11 Battle Report shows that it is the beauty group with the largest number of short-listed brands in the TOP list of Tmall, Tik Tok and JD.COM, and maintains a leading position in high-end beauty, high-end dermatological skin care, make-up, hair care and so on. During the 6th China International Import Expo(CIIE), many beauty giants announced the launch of new products and new skin care technologies, showing their attention to the China market.

As important industry weathervanes, double 11 Dapromotion and China International Import Expo(CIIE) represent the "offensive and defensive" strategy and evolution direction of beauty enterprises. It is difficult for us to draw any conclusions from the short-term ranking changes and new trends in enterprises, and we need to lengthen the cycle to look at it, but perhaps we can find the frontier trends of the beauty industry and the development opportunities of domestic beauty.

On the ups and downs of domestic beauty cosmetics from double 11

The performance of domestic brands is not a new topic in double 11 this year. Taking stock of previous double 11, there are many domestic brands in the beauty industry, but compared with international brands, the ranking of domestic brands is unstable, and there are many "one-round tourists". Taking the Tmall platform as an example, the domestic beauty products shortlisted in the TOP10 list have experienced the iteration of Amoy brand, local big brands and a new generation of domestic brands. Taking 2020 as the boundary, the domestic brands in the head have been greatly replaced, and only Winona has been shortlisted in the TOP10, ranking steadily and rising; Polaiya has made great efforts since last year and has become one of the representatives of new domestic products.

This year, the beauty category was affected by multiple factors, and there were not many surprises in the overall transaction performance. The domestic beauty products rose obviously and became one of the highlights. Among them, Tmall’s head beauty brand pattern has undergone a major renovation. SK-II and Shiseido fell out of the TOP10 due to the Japanese nuclear pollution incident, and Polaiya pushed a number of foreign brands to the top. From the perspective of brand types, comprehensive beauty brands occupy the mainstream, and functional skin care brands represented by Polaiya, Winona and Xiulike gradually rise.

In Tik Tok, another important position of beauty cosmetics, the brand pattern is different. Before that, some international brands didn’t enter Tik Tok, but domestic brands took advantage of the traffic bonus to win some opportunities. In the face of international big-name competition this year, domestic brands still have comparative advantages, achieving breakthroughs with high cost performance and refined channel operation. It is worth noting that the beauty instrument brand is outstanding in the beauty category in Tik Tok, which may be due to the live e-commerce gene of the platform, and the anchor can convey the complex principle, function and use experience of the beauty instrument to consumers.

The change of brand pattern is only the appearance, and behind the replacement of domestic brands, there are some phenomena worthy of attention.

On the whole, in addition to the cost-effective advantage, the rise of domestic brands is largely due to the accurate understanding of the needs of local consumers and the targeted launch of large single products. This feature is particularly evident in the category of skin care products. Domestic brands focus on consumers’ anti-aging anxiety and popular skin care concepts such as formula skin care, morning C and evening A, and barrier repair, and launch large single products that focus on maintaining stability, anti-aging and anti-wrinkle, contributing an important sales share to the brand. Winona Soothing and Repairing Freeze-dried Mask, Quaddy Essence, Kanshuhong Waist Suit, and Polaiya Early C Late A Suit have all appeared on the list of explosive items in double 11 on the e-commerce platform. Guoji Feigua’s 2022 double 11 Yuehaowu Power Saver Data Report shows that Polaiya’s early C late A combination contributed about 35% of its sales in double 11, Tik Tok in 2022 (from October 15th to November 11th, 2022).

Hot topics related to skin care on social platforms, image source: Fruit Collection "Insights into Accurate Skin Care Crowds on Social Media Platforms in 2023"

Large single products help domestic brands occupy a place in the list, but whether the brand stands stably enough and rushes high enough depends on whether the product iteration and category expansion can be carried out around the core efficacy to extend the product life cycle. Take Polaiya as an example, its core product series has been iterated for 2-3 generations, and many categories such as essence, water emulsion, cream and eye cream have been introduced. This helps the brand to enrich the sku portfolio, continuously create a "freshness" and increase the customer unit price. Before double 11, Polaiya released Ruby Cream 3.0 series, which contains three textures of lightness, moisture and lightness to meet the needs of different skin types. This product is also the best-selling product of brand Tmall flagship store in the past year. According to the official list of Tik Tok, Polaiya’s Early C Late A Essence Cream Set was shortlisted in double 11’s beauty explosion list. The price of this group member is close to 700 yuan, which greatly improves the price range of the product.

Compared with the field of skin care, the overall competitiveness of domestic brands in makeup is still not as good as that of international brands, especially in the high-end price band. The reason is that domestic cosmetics are mostly designed innovatively around "Chinese aesthetics", and the advantage lies in color-related categories, but the fashion trend of cosmetics changes rapidly, which is difficult to bring high consumer loyalty to brands. Domestic brands still need to make breakthroughs in skin feeling and makeup effect in order to break the situation dominated by international big brands and explore the high-end price. Perfect Diary, which was criticized for focusing on marketing, gradually paid more attention to the functional attributes and technical barriers of products. Before double 11, the brand released its "bionic membrane" essence lipstick, which is the research result of "integration of makeup and nourishing", focusing on the combination of red makeup effect, lip essence effect and lip membrane, to show the brand’s breakthrough in scientific research and innovation.

Another obvious feature of the great promotion is that the pattern of domestic beauty cosmetics is moving towards differentiation. Judging from the performance of domestic brands in different stages of Tmall double 11, many brands have become "dark horses" with the help of the initial promotion atmosphere, super-anchor delivery and other factors, but they often have bright short-term performance and insufficient stamina, and few of them can continue to lead in the whole cycle. Under the trend that Japanese and Korean brands are cold and consumers are disenchanted with international brands as a whole, the development of domestic brands is welcoming, but it is still necessary to continue to precipitate the normal operation ability and cultivate brand endurance on the basis of explosive power.

Generally speaking, domestic beauty cosmetics have ushered in a "reversal" moment during this double 11 by accurately understanding the needs of local consumers, constantly expanding the matrix of large items, high cost performance and refined channel operation.

More than "big items"

Relying on the explosive strategy to meet the current hot demand, domestic beauty brands have the opportunity to "go to the table" and gradually narrow the gap with international brands. However, from the results, it is difficult for domestic beauty products to obtain long-term growth momentum by relying on explosive products. Only by creating a "big single product" and developing a "big brand" can a brand resist a round of shuffling and sit at the poker table for a longer time.

It is not without trace that domestic brands represented by Polaiya and Winona have won great victories. They benefited from the rise of the component party and the efficacy party, and implemented the strategy of "big single product", but they did not rely on this strategy. As mentioned above, the three series of Polaiya Double Antibody, Ruby and Yuanli have been extended from essence to different categories. This year, Polaiya launched a new energy series for the anti-aging needs of mature muscles, and its three-piece energy set, which cost more than 1000 yuan, entered the live broadcast room in Li Jiaqi during its stay in double 11, which shows the brand’s intention to push this series. Winona, Kerfumei and other brands are also constantly expanding their category matrix and reducing their dependence on a single big item. After verifying the heat of recombinant collagen components with collagen rods, Kefumei accelerated the pace of promoting new products, supplemented the categories of emulsion and mask, and its water supply line and oil control line also launched different types of products one after another.

The richness of brand category structure, on the one hand, represents the life cycle and anti-risk ability of brand products, on the other hand, represents its coverage of different levels of consumer demand and different scenarios. The application of patented ingredients to the technical threshold such as essence and cream with higher premium ability also helps domestic brands to gradually get rid of the image of relying on low prices and explore high-end prices. According to Polaiya’s financial report, the average selling price of the company’s skin care products increased by 57.05% year-on-year, mainly due to the year-on-year sales increase of essence and cream products with higher unit price.

From the above results, we can see that domestic beauty cosmetics are taking enhancing product research and development capabilities as a strategic goal and tearing off the label of "emphasizing marketing and neglecting research and development". Local beauty companies have increased the proportion of R&D investment, and focused on components, raw materials and other links that can help enterprises build barriers. In recent two years, synthetic biology, molecular biology and other technologies have been accelerated to be applied to skin care products, and "skin care+biological components" has become a high-growth concept of beauty track, which requires enterprises to carry out collaborative research on basic research, functional raw materials and formula system. According to Zhongxin. com, there are currently 121 research and development projects on raw materials and synthetic organisms in Huaxi Bio. Double 11’s outstanding Fumei brand, its parent company Juzi Bio has four collagen medical beauty products under research, two of which are expected to be approved in 2024, becoming a new source of growth for the enterprise.

Image source: CBNData《2023 Oriental Beauty Valley Blue Book "

Another dimension that domestic brands have been examined for a long time is the ability to operate omni-channel. This batch of new domestic brands have risen online. When the traffic dividend is gradually divided up, on the one hand, brands need to treat online channels in a refined way to improve profit margins. On the other hand, they begin to respect traditional channels, return to offline and near-field e-commerce, and even enter duty-free shops to find new growth opportunities. However, with the new channels, there are new ways of playing and brand logic, as well as powerful opponents. Domestic brands still have a long way to go.

Grouping proposition

From the perspective of single brand, domestic brands initially have the right to speak in the beauty industry with big names. However, from the perspective of the group, there is still a big gap between the comprehensive strength of domestic brands and international beauty cosmetics. As mentioned at the beginning of the article, almost half of the seats in double 11’s e-commerce platform beauty list this year belong to L ‘Oré al’s brands. Although the performance of Estee Lauder Group declined in fiscal year 2023, the main brands of the same name, Estee Lauder and Hailan Mystery, are still relatively strong in the high-end price band.

"L ‘Oré als" have achieved the coverage of different categories, price bands and sub-groups by virtue of top-class, high-end, Volkswagen, cinema and other brands, and better enhanced the Group’s ability to resist risks. No matter how the external environment and consumer demand change, there are corresponding sub-brands in the group to undertake.

However, domestic beauty cosmetics have not yet owned their own "L ‘Oreal" and "Estee Lauder". Although Polaiya, Huaxi Bio and Juzi Bio take the multi-brand route, at present, their dependence on a single brand is still relatively high, or the differences between sub-brands are not obvious. Although the ingredients and focus areas of Fumei and Kelijin under Juzi Bio are different, the brand needs to further formulate differentiation strategies in order to make consumers clear about their differences. According to the data of Polaiya’s financial report, in the first three quarters of 2023, the main brand contributed about 80% to the Group’s revenue, and Caitang accounted for about 10% of the total revenue. The sub-brands such as Off&Realx and Yuefushi made little contribution, and it remains to be seen whether they can become the "N-th growth curve". At the brand’s 20th anniversary strategy conference, Polaiya said that she would innovate the strategic planning, from "troika" to "6*N strategy", and broaden the multi-category matrix of skin care, make-up, toiletries and high-efficiency categories.

In addition to self-incubation, some brands refer to L ‘Oré al’s acquisition strategy to build their own brand matrix. Take Yixian Group as an example. Since 2019, it has successively acquired cosmetics brand Odin, French high-end skin care brand Kelanli, British high-end beauty brand EVE LOM, and functional skin care brand DR.WU (business in Chinese mainland). On the one hand, it has improved the layout in the field of skin care, on the other hand, it has told high-end stories. Increasing the proportion of skin care business has indeed improved the financial situation of Yixian e-commerce. The financial report shows that Yixian e-commerce has maintained an upward trend in gross profit margin in the past four quarters, with a gross profit margin of 74.7% in the second quarter, up 11.9% year-on-year, the highest in a single quarter since listing.

In addition to the width of demand, the gap between domestic brands and international brands lies in the depth of brand value. Beauty has always been regarded as a category with great emotional value, and emotional skin care is also a hot topic on social platforms. Polaiya has recently made intensive speeches on gender equality, mental health and emotion to show the social value of the brand. On the basis of brand-level vocalization, domestic beauty cosmetics are also integrating emotional concepts into products. During the 6th China International Import Expo(CIIE), Yixian E-commerce unveiled the Shanghai Global Innovation R&D Center, and "emotional skin care" is one of its four major R&D fields in the future. EVE LOM brand bears the realization of this concept. It launched the fragrance candle of "Manor after Rain" in China International Import Expo(CIIE), and tracked and analyzed the emotional changes of users when they experienced the SPA through the AI brainwave emotional test instrument to show the brand’s emotional skin care technology.

From supplementing research and development, creating large single products, enhancing brand power in multiple dimensions and developing towards collectivization, domestic beauty cosmetics are constantly evolving. However, compared with international brands that have experienced long-term accumulation, there are still many gaps that need to be filled. At present, China consumers’ recognition of domestic products has increased, and Japanese and Korean brands have given up some market share in the cold, so domestic beauty products have ushered in new development opportunities. This year’s double 11 can be said to be the best performance of domestic beauty products. Jumping out of the promotion atmosphere and price advantage, domestic brands need to make more efforts to prove their unique value. As consumers, we may wish to give more opportunities and patience to domestic beauty cosmetics, so as to wait for the brand to hand over better answers.

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