Early project

Wen | Yao Lan

Clean Beauty is becoming a new fashion trend.

NPD, a well-known American market research organization, announced the impact of the COVID-19 epidemic on the beauty industry. The data showed that the sales of beauty products dropped by 14%, but the sales of pure beauty products rose by 11% against the trend. According to Tmall data, during the period of June 18 this year, the sub-categories such as essence, mask, cleansing and makeup remover under Tmall International Pure Beauty category all increased by more than 100% year-on-year.

What is "pure beauty"? In August this year, Tmall International Beauty and COSMOHits, the beauty media, made a clear definition of the concept of "pure beauty" for the first time, including four aspects: harmless addition of ingredients, environmental friendliness and zero harm, animal friendliness and cruelty, and sustainable environmental protection and zero waste.

Since 2020, foreign big beauty groups have invested in adding more pure beauty tracks (for example, Shiseido Group acquired Drunk Elephant, a brand of pure beauty and skin care, for US$ 845 million, and Unilever acquired Tatcha for US$ 500 million), and domestic pure beauty brands also came into being.

36Kr recently came into contact with China pure beauty brand "Dewy Lab Yiyi", which was founded in 2020, aimed at the core consumer groups such as sensitive muscles, pregnant women, medical beauty crowd and new white-collar workers, focusing on cosmetic products with both "pure ingredients" and "excellent makeup effect" and advocating a romantic feeling of "self-satisfaction". It is understood that "Dewy Lab" won the "Blogger’s Choice" Award in Little Red Book 2021WILL Future Brand Award.

The picture is provided by the enterprise.

Dewy Lab launched its first new product "Morning" series in January this year, including three single products: morning dew foundation cream, morning mist powder and morning glow blush cream. After launching the brand Tmall flagship store and the official applet, the monthly sales of single products have exceeded 10,000 at present.

Amber, the founder of Dewy Lab, told 36Kr that most cosmetic formulations on the market now are mainly designed with the basic goal of "beauty", focusing on makeup effect and skin feeling, regardless of whether the ingredients are harmful to the skin. "Dewy Lab Love" started from the first series, and its products focused on makeup, trying to give consumers peace of mind protection from the part closest to the skin.

The picture is provided by the enterprise.

The standard of pure make-up advocated by "Dewy Lab" includes three aspects:

First,user friendlyThat is, it does not contain harmful and controversial chemical components such as talcum powder, plastic beads, mineral oil, nipagin ester, etc. In order to provide unique pure beauty products, the brand will not only bring the research and discovery of raw materials and formulas by Chinese scientists in universities such as Cambridge University and University of Pennsylvania back to China, so as to speed up the product iteration, but also become a strategic partner with China Inspection Department to strictly control the formula of each product.

Second,Friendly life, that is, no animal experiments, and pet-friendly, playing licking is non-toxic. At this point, "Dewy Lab" hopes to help the development of front-end toxicology testing in the future.

Third,Environment friendlyAdvocate the recyclability and degradability of product packaging materials, take carbon neutrality as the ultimate goal, and constantly optimize production methods.

It is reported that the core team of Dewy Lab is from Cambridge University, University of Pennsylvania and Nanyang Technological University, and their main research directions are pharmacology, biochemistry and chemistry, which are closely related to the makeup formula and raw materials. On the basis of referring to the European and American brand purity standards, according to the front-end research results and credible academic journals, they have formulated and constantly updated the scientific, rigorous and systematic "Dewy Lab" brand purity standards.

At present, the brand has explored the triangular structure of product research and development: 1) the team of brand scientists strictly controls the use of raw materials to ensure the safety of ingredients; 2) Joint research and development with the formula laboratory to jointly break through the bottleneck of pure formula and ensure the exclusive use of formula; 3) Each product must be tried by top makeup artists in the industry to ensure excellent makeup effect and skin feel.

Amber said that at this stage, "Dewy Lab Love" mainly relies on social media to strengthen the spread of brand value proposition. In the future, we will continue to focus on the research and development of new products, bringing consumers more product choices and a more pleasant experience.